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Loss of crown and all we were on our way by 8:00. As with the day before the wave of pilgrims was ongoing from the time we crossed the bridge leaving town. The morning was cool no rain was in the forecast and we hoped for another pleasant day on the Camino. 

The walk was hillier than then previous days so we had a lot of good cardio workouts going up inclines. We stopped for a break and hot chocolate after the first 2 hours which had flown by. This time the hot chocolate was an instant mix, and though still good was not what we had come to expect by way of drinking a hot liquid candy bar. The cafe was packed with pilgrims, both coming and going and the proprietors were very efficient in getting everyone food and drink in a timely manner. One thing we have noticed is that pilgrims have a good appetite and like to eat. 

We contemplated our food and decided that we were done with tuna, rice crackers and goat cheese for the rest of the journey. These staples had served us well but now their time had come and we were moving onto something else once we finished up our current supplies. For the remaining few days we would buy ready made food again from the cafes we stopped at. I think all this points to our ending the Camino soon. We are ready for a change of routine. 

After our morning break I had a great two hours of walking. The food and a long up hill trek right after eating helped get me into a pace and stride that was pure joy to walk. There was a long trail of pilgrims ahead of me and slowly and surely I passed them all until I was again walking in peace and quiet. 

One of the differences I notice between the 100K walkers and the long distance pilgrims is that the short walkers tend to walk in groups at a slower pace often chatting as they trek. Those who have been longer on the Way tend to walk alone and at a faster pace. Certainly we are in better shape and, yet though 100K seems a short distance compared to 900K, the walk is still challenging and I have now more compassion for these new walkers than I originally felt. 

A few hours later we stopped again this time for a bowl of the famous Caldo Gallago soup that we like so much. The temperature had been fluctuating in the 40-50’s and when the sun was not shining it was chilly. The soup was hot and nourishing. As we sat there eating our soup and finishing the last of our cheese and rice crackers we noticed a number of pilgrims crowding around the counter stamping their “Credential” with the stamp of this particular establishment. This is the document the pilgrims carry and usually get stamped with an individual stamp of the hostel or inn showing that they have indeed been there. In order to get the Certificate of Completion for walking the Way, the pilgrims present their Credential, with all their stamps, on arriving in Santiago proving that they have walked at least the 100K. So these pilgrims, who must have been short walkers, were trying to get as many stamps on their pilgrims’ passport to show that they had traveled the requisite kilometers. For Lilly and I our Credentials have stamps going back to Geneva so we have no concern about having walked far enough to get our certificate. 

After lunch we still had another 8K to go and that passed quickly. Lil and I walked together the remaining distance which is unusual for us. Our normal practice is to start out together and soon will be walking alone with our own thoughts and musings. However, this afternoon we were enjoying our mutual company and by 3:00 were entering the town of Palas de Rei, translated as the palace of the king, which we thought ironic as the queen had just lost her crown that morning. 

Our Pension was a bit off the Camino but we found it without trouble. We had another clean and modern place. The only issue was that the room was chilly and I asked the person who checked us in about it. She said she would take care of it but then only the bathroom heater came on. Later when we came back from dinner I mentioned it again and she came up to see what was up and then of course the heat was on. Now as I write this it is off again. Ah well…. 

Lilly and I both took long naps. Lilly who has not been a nap aficionado like myself is starting to see the joys and benefits of an afternoon snooze. She now wakes up saying, “that was delicious.”…… a sure sign that a nap has been a pleasure. After stretching we went out in search of a place to eat. The town which looked quaint on entering soon lost its charm on closer inspection. There were a few places to choose from and we found one that looked quieter and less frequented by masses of pilgrims. 

The menu was standard pilgrim’s fare but with a few different items. Lilly had a salad, I creamed asparagus soup, Lil had a Spanish Omelet, our first in almost 3 weeks and I had fried fish that were little fish fried whole. Quite good. For dessert Santiago cake. There were other pilgrims eating there too, ones we recognized from our walking the last two days, seeing many of the same people over and over again. We guess this group of strangers will be our company when we arrive in Santiago on Wednesday. 

I didn’t take many pictures today so there are only two: one of a statue of an Angel in an unusual pose and one of a herd of sheep making their Way. 

Tomorrow we have our last long day, almost 29K. We are hoping the weather will hold out a bit longer. The prediction is for rain on Tues and Weds. 

All right it’s now 10:15 an early finish for me and so I will say: 

Hasta Manana Amigos!

The morning began with a wave of pilgrims leaving town and it never stopped all day. Today we saw more pilgrims than any other so far on the Camino. I would venture that most of them were over forty and of those many over sixty. It’s hard to know who has just picked up the Camino and who has been on it for a while though my guess is those with new shoes and packs may be recent additions to the Way. 

The walk itself was beautiful and we were grateful for no mist or fog which had obscured the fields and countryside traversed yesterday. Today we could see far and wide. The charming paths through enchanted forests, along stone fences and over streams and creeks were delightful. We were still in the foot hills of the mountains we crossed last week and the trek took us up and down hills all day. The temperature was variable and so it was another day of putting on and then taking off or switching layers of clothes. 

I had wondered how it would be to be in the flow of so many pilgrims as we approached Santiago especially as I love the quiet alone time that I have gotten to experience so much of this journey. I had decided to accept the situation as it was and find my peace amongst the masses. For the most part it was fine. There were times when I wished for alone time and quiet space, and often when so the crowds would magically dissolve and I would be walking alone or near alone. Today there was a cacophony of different languages being spoken around us, certainly a good cross section of the globe was represented. Besides missing alone time I also I experienced the joy of so many people going to Santiago and the sense of excitement of us all getting closer, in 5 days we will be arriving. Lil posed an interesting question where she wondered about the experience of the farmers and locals who see streams of pilgrims passing by day after day from April through October. My sense is they like the pilgrims for they often wish us Buen Camino or Good Journey as we pass by. It must also be good for the economies of these villages, yet it may also seem an intrusion into their rustic pastoral existence. 

We stopped for lunch and had a feast of rice crackers, tuna, goat cheese, carrot, cucumber, the sweetest pear ever, and chocolate. This gave us the fuel we needed for the afternoon. While eating we spied Judy, the pilgrim we had met several days prior when climbing the highest point of the Camino and whom we had taken pictures of laying her prayer stones. She had been incapacitated for several days due to feet issues and was now back on the Way again. Later we stopped at a cafe and had our new favorite, a cup of hot chocolate. Oh so good on this chilly afternoon. 

We arrived at Portomarin about 3:00 and though tired we were not beat as we have often been at the end of a day. We found our way to the Posada de Portomarin a three star hotel that had once been the bell of the town. Now it was a bit worn on the edges but still very comfortable and welcoming. We changed from our initial room for the bathtub looked like it had mold around the edges. The management assured us it wasn’t and still gladly gave us another room. Being hungry and not wanting to fill up on nuts before dinner we went to the town square and found a restaurant still serving lunch and each had a bowl of the wonderful Gallacian soup that we have come to love. 

Back at the hotel we took baths and naps. Lil’s foot had been bothering her more this afternoon so we decided to eat in the hotel restaurant rather than going out and walking on it. The dining room was beautiful with elegant place settings on each table. We both had fish dishes for dinner, Lil, Seabass on a bed of turnip greens and I, turbot with grilled veggies and creamed pumpkin sauce. Both were delicious. While we waited we read past blog postings from this trip and played a game of trying to remember where we had stayed each night since starring in Pamplona. In looking back we’ve had a remarkable journey. One of the things we noted, and were sad about, is that we met many interesting people the first few days of the trip and then few there after. Sadly most of those early folks were fast walkers and have completed the journey by now and we won’t have the fun of meeting them in Santiago to celebrate together our accomplishment. However, at this point we are grateful to be getting there ourselves and that, in itself, will be plenty to celebrate. 

Well it’s late and Lilly is asleep so I too shall now say: 

Buenas Noches Amigos!

We made ourselves leave the warmth and comfort of our beds to get started on our day. We were so grateful that the heat had been turned on in our room, a first since we started on this trip. It seems in most places in Spain if it isn’t down right freezing the heat stays off. 

We had breakfast in the cafe, toast and coffee with milk. The latte seemed more comforting in the cold weather than plain Americanos. We shared the dining room with two large groups eating at separate long tables. It seems we’ve hit the time and place where groups of middle aged retirees come to this part of the Camino to do short country walks and visit quaint Galacian villages. 

With breakfast over we had no further excuses to linger and we headed out into the cold rainy morning. The first two hours were long. Descending and then ascending again with the rain pelting us and the winds blowing hard. Besides the regular pilgrims we came across several day hiking groups who had a van to pick them up at regular intervals if they got too wet or cold. 

After the second hour we stopped for coffee and a snack. I was wetter from sweating under my rain gear than I was from the rain itself and thought about taking off a layer. However, the coffee and food were greatly regenerating and by the time we left I had cooled down enough to put back on all my layers. It was a good thing too for when we left the tavern the temperature had dropped and was colder yet. Being fortified with food and hot drink, though, I soon got into a stride and rhythm that was the best of the whole journey to date. The mist was so thick I could only see a few feet in front and back of me and the was rain coming down so hard I had to hold my head down to get through it, and it was wonderful. My body felt alive and all my earlier aches and bothers disappeared as I merged with the elements and walked with a grace and agility that was a joy to partake of. I think Lilly-Barb too had a similar experience which she shared with me at our next break. 

We walked for another two hours before stopping at another restaurant for Galcian soup and amazing hot chocolate. Here again were other pilgrims as well as tour groups making a stop on their day’s itinerary. One woman from a group was drawn to Lil and they discovered they were both originally from Delaware. Lil later remarked that taking one of those tours would be like “death warmed over for her.” 

The day had been beautiful. The morning started cold, wet and windy; mist masking the valleys below. By noon the fog had cleared and sun breaks were showing the emerald fields and stone fences that lay along the trail we walked on. This land is poor by the standards of other parts of the Camino we had been on. More like the French Camino with small farms and lonely stone villages. The path too was reminiscent of France with its rocky trails and steep inclines. By the time we stopped for lunch the sun was out and the sky a pristine blue with billowing white clouds. 

We left the restaurant and the rest of the afternoon flew by. We arrived at our destination by 3:15 and remarked how easy the days hike had seemed. Lil’s foot had begun to bother her by now and it was a good time to stop. We’d made a reservation the day before and were happy to have done so for the place was full when we checked in. Yet another very nice room with a great bathroom and hot shower. Yeah! 

Stretches, washing and no nap later we went in search of food. We found a small grocery and bought a few staples and then a restaurant. Here we had a light meal with two delicious desserts and came back to our nest. I to write and Lil to read. 

Now is a good time for me to tell you about why I refer to Barb as Lilly. It began some years ago when doing a reading for Barb and I received the message that her essence name was Lilly. Since then we have joked about it and from time to time I have called her Lil or Lilly, which I think suits her well. This trip I saw Lilly emerge more and more; playful and at ease in herself, sweet, kind and funny, allowing and letting go to the flow of life, trusting its course. Calling her Lil seemed much more congruent to her spirit than Barb, which more reflects her yang aspect. And at one point Barb agreed that for the course of the journey she would be know as Lilly on the Way and would so introduce herself as such to those she met. It has been fun and she has been comfortable as Lilly, I think. We discovered that there are other associations with Lilly that are significant to her. She has always liked France and the flower of France is the lily, her mother’s name was Mary Lyle, and Lyle is another way of spelling Lil. Barb’s mother was a southern bell and though she passed many years ago, her spirit has been with us this trip. She is living amends by being loving and playful and encouraging Lilly to bring flair and swirl into her life! 

Lil and Will on the Way! It is hard to believe that in less than a week, if the gods and St. James are allowing, we will be in Santiago and this journey together will be at an end. I think for both of us the adventure has been different than expected while also being deeply rich and fulfilling. We are now entering the Spiritual and last stage of the Camino so surprises yet may await us! Regardless we sure have had fun together! 

Well the house is quiet and all are asleep. So it is time for me also to say: 

Buenas Noches Amigos!

We made ourselves leave the warmth and comfort of our beds to get started on our day. We were so grateful that the heat had been turned on in our room, a first since we started on this trip. It seems in most places in Spain if it isn’t down right freezing the heat stays off. 

We had breakfast in the cafe, toast and coffee with milk. The latte seemed more comforting in the cold weather than plain Americanos. We shared the dining room with two large groups eating at separate long tables. It seems we’ve hit the time and place where groups of middle aged retirees come to this part of the Camino to do short country walks and visit quaint Galacian villages. 

With breakfast over we had no further excuses to linger and we headed out into the cold rainy morning. The first two hours were long. Descending and then ascending again with the rain pelting us and the winds blowing hard. Besides the regular pilgrims we came across several day hiking groups who had a van to pick them up at regular intervals if they got too wet or cold. 

After the second hour we stopped for coffee and a snack. I was wetter from sweating under my rain gear than I was from the rain itself and thought about taking off a layer. However, the coffee and food were greatly regenerating and by the time we left I had cooled down enough to put back on all my layers. It was a good thing too for when we left the tavern the temperature had dropped and was colder yet. Being fortified with food and hot drink, though, I soon got into a stride and rhythm that was the best of the whole journey to date. The mist was so thick I could only see a few feet in front and back of me and the was rain coming down so hard I had to hold my head down to get through it, and it was wonderful. My body felt alive and all my earlier aches and bothers disappeared as I merged with the elements and walked with a grace and agility that was a joy to partake of. I think Lilly-Barb too had a similar experience which she shared with me at our next break. 

We walked for another two hours before stopping at another restaurant for Galcian soup and amazing hot chocolate. Here again were other pilgrims as well as tour groups making a stop on their day’s itinerary. One woman from a group was drawn to Lil and they discovered they were both originally from Delaware. Lil later remarked that taking one of those tours would be like “death warmed over for her.” 

The day had been beautiful. The morning started cold, wet and windy; mist masking the valleys below. By noon the fog had cleared and sun breaks were showing the emerald fields and stone fences that lay along the trail we walked on. This land is poor by the standards of other parts of the Camino we had been on. More like the French Camino with small farms and lonely stone villages. The path too was reminiscent of France with its rocky trails and steep inclines. By the time we stopped for lunch the sun was out and the sky a pristine blue with billowing white clouds. 

We left the restaurant and the rest of the afternoon flew by. We arrived at our destination by 3:15 and remarked how easy the days hike had seemed. Lil’s foot had begun to bother her by now and it was a good time to stop. We’d made a reservation the day before and were happy to have done so for the place was full when we checked in. Yet another very nice room with a great bathroom and hot shower. Yeah! 

Stretches, washing and no nap later we went in search of food. We found a small grocery and bought a few staples and then a restaurant. Here we had a light meal with two delicious desserts and came back to our nest. I to write and Lil to read. 

Now is a good time for me to tell you about why I refer to Barb as Lilly. It began some years ago when doing a reading for Barb and I received the message that her essence name was Lilly. Since then we have joked about it and from time to time I have called her Lil or Lilly, which I think suits her well. This trip I saw Lilly emerge more and more; playful and at ease in herself, sweet, kind and funny, allowing and letting go to the flow of life, trusting its course. Calling her Lil seemed much more congruent to her spirit than Barb, which more reflects her yang aspect. And at one point Barb agreed that for the course of the journey she would be know as Lilly on the Way and would so introduce herself as such to those she met. It has been fun and she has been comfortable as Lilly, I think. We discovered that there are other associations with Lilly that are significant to her. She has always liked France and the flower of France is the lily, her mother’s name was Mary Lyle, and Lyle is another way of spelling Lil. Barb’s mother was a southern bell and though she passed many years ago, her spirit has been with us this trip. She is living amends by being loving and playful and encouraging Lilly to bring flair and swirl into her life! 

Lil and Will on the Way! It is hard to believe that in less than a week, if the gods and St. James are allowing, we will be in Santiago and this journey together will be at an end. I think for both of us the adventure has been different than expected while also being deeply rich and fulfilling. We are now entering the Spiritual and last stage of the Camino so surprises yet may await us! Regardless we sure have had fun together! 

Well the house is quiet and all are asleep. So it is time for me also to say: 

Buenas Noches Amigos!

I awoke at my usual hour of 6:30 but as there was no need to get up, we stayed in bed until 8:00. Late for us on our recent schedule. 

We were the last in the dining room for breakfast. A couple of pilgrims were still eating, a pair we had seen yesterday on our hike to O’Cebriero. We’d thought they might be father and son, but as we later learned from talking with them they were friends who had met on the Camino. The older man was from Dublin the younger from Gloucester, England. They had become fast friends on the Walk, telling us how they had wonderful conversations and jokingly said they were solving the age old English-Irish problem. Yet another Camino story of souls connecting on the Way. 

One of the attractions of this town is its laundry service. It’d been awhile since we had our clothes washed for us and were glad to take advantage of the opportunity. After breakfast and dropping the laundry off, we headed to the cafe and worked on making reservations for the next eight nights on the Camino including our stay in Santiago. 

The internet connection in this hostel was intermittent. We were lucky and had a window that lasted as long as we needed to find and book rooms in all of the towns in which we’d be staying. It took almost three hours of patience and perseverance using different internet sites to find pensions and hostels with reasonable rates and availability. And when we finished our task successfully Lil said she liked the part of her personality which allowed her to persevere until all was completed. 

Unlike the beginning of our trip where we trusted that we would be able to find a place to stay at the end of our day, the Camino is now getting busier by the day with new pilgrims making their way west to Santiago. 

We have been meeting folks now who left St. Jean de Port on May 1. They would have started walking about 11 days after we began to meet us now. Furthermore, in two days we will reach the last 100K mark to Santiago, and this is when the Camino becomes its busiest. The reason being that the Catholic Church has decreed in order to receive a certificate of completion for walking the Camino that one needed to prove that one has walked the last 100K. At this point bus loads of new pilgrims are dropped off to do their 100K walk to Santiago co-mingling with those pilgrims who have already walked 800+K. Finding accommodations thus becomes even more challenging, hence our making reservations ahead of time. 

I’ve heard for the short walkers the journey is more of a party event, fun and celebratory. For the long walker it’s also a celebratory event yet may be more a more contemplative one of absorbing the lessons of the Way. As we near the end of our journey I feel a deep sense of gratitude for our having had the grace to make it through the challenges and hardships we faced this far. 

Our laundry done and reservations made we headed back to our room for a well deserved nap (at least for me). After resting I read us passages from a new translation of the Tao de Ching, a famous Taoist treatise on how to live a harmonious life. We both resonated with its wisdom and marveled how its title, which translates to the Book of the Way, and its contents are so apropos for one walking the Camino. 

It’d been raining and cold all morning and we felt compassion for the pilgrims up at 6:00 and on their way by 6:30 in such inclement weather. Though tomorrow we may be such ourselves. By the time we were done resting it had cleared up and was now sunny intermittently. We ventured out walking around the whole village visiting the church, a 9th century structure. The town seemed stuck in time and reminded me of old New England villages that never change and where strangers are unwelcome. Though there is a constant influx of strangers here every day. 

At the church was a bust of a priest who had done more for the modern Camino being firmly established and for the signage that is so clearly posted that the current day pilgrim can always find his Way. As with thousands of other pilgrims before us Lil and I paid our respects with deep gratitude to this man for his service to the Camino. 

Dinner was earlier tonight. We both had a mixed salad with real green lettuce, not iceburg, onions, and tomatoes and perfectly dressed. We again had the Galcian soup and for dessert chestnut pie. Fabulous and not too filling. What was fulfilling was our deep conversation about limiting beliefs. We looked particularly at our ideas regarding relationships and how we might have hidden beliefs that were blocking success in this important arena in our life. We both decided we had similar issues though at different ends of the same continuum: me doubting I’d meet someone who I could be met by and Lil believing she didn’t deserve a great relationship. We decided both beliefs were limiting perspectives and are using our walking meditation time to reflect more on this before we complete the trip. 

Now I’m at the bar finishing the blog as they start to close up and so I will bid you all good night and say: 

Hasta Manana Amigos!