Category: 2014 Walking the Way

By 8:00 we were in the coffee shop of the hotel having Americanos, then by 8:30 were heading on out to another beautiful day on the Way. The temp was again in the 30s but with each hour it warmed up by almost 20 degrees until it was a perfect 70 degrees for most of the day. 

On the way out of town a woman handed Lilly a flyer advertising a restaurant in one of the upcoming villages that offered organic breakfasts. This caught her attention and when we reached the town an hour an a half later the proprietress welcomed us to enjoy breakfast at her place. Lilly had just been talking about wanting granola yesterday, and when we saw one of the items was homemade muesli we jumped on it. Big bowls with milk and fruit. Delicious! To be having comfort food that was good for you. 

The woman chatted us up while we ate, telling us how the Camino was getting busier and busier, not as much fun to walk anymore but good for her business as more and more pilgrims are vegetarians or health conscious. She had already run out of her green smoothies for the day. We were happy as clams and spent a leisurely hour enjoying the food outside in the warmth of the morning sun. While there several pilgrims stopped by to purchase sandwiches or drinks for the road. We too left with a panini-like sandwich with fresh tomatoes, greens and peppers inside. 

While we were there I noticed one of the pilgrims who’d stopped was carrying her pack in a very unbalanced way. I conjectured it was having an adverse effect on her walk. When we later saw her again at another stop and I mentioned it to her saying should she be willing I could adjust her pack to be more comfortable. She was more than willing and between Lilly and I we got her all situated. And with gratitude she noticed a difference right away. 

Having one’s backpack correctly packed, strapped and worn properly makes all the difference for long distance walks. Because I learned so much about what not to do on my last walk, I am now an “expert” on how to fit it so its comfortable. Every day I see pilgrims with packs listing to the right or left or slung to low or worn too high. It is a very nice feeling to help a pilgrim in a way that makes their journey easier. 

The walk today for both Lilly-Barb and I was the best yet. The kilometers sailed by smoothly without pain or effort. We were both in the zone. This is what one hopes for when walking the Way. That place where it all comes together in peace and harmony. Nothing like it or as Lilly says: “it doesn’t get any better than this!” 

Most of the pilgrims today were in the gray to white haired end of the continuum. We marvel and admire those that undertake this long journey. All shapes and sizes and ages of people are here on the Camino. It is inspiring to see and that these folks see no limits to what they can do though today there were several who were limping along. It is truly a global community making this journey together to a destination that may have a different significance for each of us yet ties us all together. 

We stopped for lunch and ate our panini sandwich and the delicious pears that were Lil’s choice for dessert last night and saved for today. They were sweet and perfectly firm. Simple little things like this are pure magic on the Camino because we see how taken care 

of we are in everyway. The woman whose pack we’d fixed walked by much happier than she’d been earlier in the day. Another pilgrim told us it was 5K to our next stop at Rabanal Del Camino. Not far now as the day’s walk had been smooth and easy. 

Gradually climbing elevation we reached Rabanal, around 3:00, now being high above the Maseta plane. Tomorrow we’d be climbing to the highest point on the Camino Francais and then make our way down into Glacia by Tuesday. 

Today we were on the front end of town, and our Posada was the first place to greet you on coming into the village. We had a warm welcome and were taken to a great room with royal purple covers and light green walls with French doors that opened onto a small balcony. The bathroom had a fabulous tub complete with bubble bath soap! 

When traveling through France the tubs, when at all available were too small for my frame, yet here in Spain almost all have been wonderful for me to soak in. As I have said….Lil and Will are being spoiled and pampered on the Way. And it’s totally fine as it is helping us complete this amazing journey by allowing us to take the best care we can of our dear selves. 

On settling in I declared that I was going to take a nap and did so for an hour and a half, deeply and fully. On waking I took my bubble bath and soaked easing stress and tension from my body. Oh…baths and the Camino go well together. Like food, a bath is never more appreciated. 

Clothes washed and both rested we went to a 7:00 service of Benedictine monks singing Gregorian Chants in an ancient 11th century church. The place was full of pilgrims. The service lovely as 6 monks sang together. Included was a time for pilgrims from different countries to read scripture in their own language. I found myself going into a deep meditative state and imagined being there as a Knights’ Templar, singing these songs with my brethren knights while the pilgrims listened and prayed with us. 

After the service we wandered around this ancient stone village. Rabanal del Camino is a place we’d both like to come back to. It is on the list of our favorite stops. Not only beautiful in itself, the setting high above the plane with snow capped ranges at it’s back makes this little village a special energy place that’s lovely to be in. Like some of the other places on the Camino I felt at home and familiar here. We both are in awe of Spain and how it continues to surprise us with is depth and beauty, it’s old grandeur and modern hospitality, its refined cultivation and sweet simplicity. 

I thought of my brother Rob today as we walked up the old flag stone street, running through the center of town, past stone buildings, constructed long ago, small structures perfect in form, lining the incline, and imagined how much he would appreciate this village. It reminded me of Conques, another town in France he liked very much. A Medievalist at heart and by education, I believe he’d enjoy the whole journey of the ancient Camino as it might speak to his spirit in this same way it has mine. 

On the way back to our Posada we found some green grass and stretched. A couple of ladies stopped and chatted while we did our practice. They too were from Australia, starting in Leon and going to Santiago in two weeks. Both in their late fifties they weren’t in great shape by any means yet here they were taking this great adventure together. It was their third day and they were doing well. 

Our Posada was run by a family. The third family operation we’ve stayed in that we’re aware of. It’s a good feeling to see the family members all work together. In Villavante’s hostel there were three generations. There’s a cooperative spirit here in Spain. We noticed it at the hotels too. Everyone pitches in when something needs doing. 

With the increased pilgrim traffic many of these villages that once were dying are now coming back to life. Furthermore the quality of lodgings and accommodations has significantly improved. Pilgrims for the most part of well cared for on the Camino. 

Dinner was rice with stir fried vegetables and creamed vegetable soup. Both were light and nourishing and delicious. Again another piece of magic on the Way: food that we crave appears! For dessert a light homemade crepe with chocolate sauce and filling, perfectly accompanied by a solo coffee so I could blog tonight. 

Now I have and so can say once again: 

Buenas Noches Amigos!

Lilly-Barb had slept hard and long, going to sleep at 9:30 and waking at 6:30. She is working hard on healing her foot and understanding the meaning behind its manifestation. Her efforts are bearing fruit as her foot improves slowly. She continues to love and appreciate herself letting go of that which no longer serves her. 

The lessons of the Way come in their own time. Some think injuries will happen in the first weeks of walking, however, the rules of the Camino are dictated by the needs of those who put themselves in its flow and when the experience presents itself one can only surrender and trust that all needs will be met, no matter the lesson metted! 

I felt great as we left the Albergue. My pack which has felt foreign to me the last few days, unfamiliar and uncomfortable, felt like my old friend again and I was joyful. My feet both felt fine and my initial walking was brisk, yet conscious. 

We walked for an hour then stopped at the first cafe/bar that we came to for a coffee and snack. Inside was the young couple we’d met twice yesterday, we thought they were newlyweds perhaps. They were from Denver, Co, had been married for two years. He wanted to come for the spiritual solitude of the Camino and his wife didn’t want him going alone. We liked them and were happy to have another pair of pilgrims to be connected to on the Way. 

The coffee was the best yet. The kind server also gave us a slice of pound cake with our Americanos. Lil was in a grouchy spot but once she ate and drank her flagging spirits raised and all was well. She reminded us that eating will help when feeling off or down. We then had another round it was so good. 

Our walk now took us through an old medieval town that was charming. Spain is a wonderful country for interesting and beautiful architecture and as we have progressed along the Camino it continues to be changing and varied. Lil took a great pic of me on an old Roman bridge. It felt good to be there. Perhaps in another parallel reality I’m a Roman engineer who built that structure. 

The day, another gem amongst the many we have enjoyed, began cold, the coldest morning yet, but by 10:30 had warmed up enough for me to shed down vest, sweater, and pants for shorts. Around this time we had our second missing the trail experience to date and it wasn’t a bad one. We were back on route soon, the path taking us up hills in backcountry, the first real elevation since coming to the Meseta. We stopped half way to eat lunch and were surprised by the wave of pilgrims that streamed by while we were sitting there, a group of three even came and sat near us to eat and rest. It amused me because I’d thought we were all alone with the exception of the occasional pilgrim passing by now and then. Lilly suggested that the Way is getting busy, May is the beginning of the Camino season. Yet most begin the walk at St. Jean Pierre de Port on the other side of the Pyranees in France and it would take 3 weeks at best to get here if walking at a very fast pace. Perhaps there are just many more pilgrims who began early this year. 

Toward the end of our backcountry walk we came upon pilgrim’s helpers offering simple cooked food, fresh fruit, water, boiled eggs, etc., all laying out on a lovely cart for the pilgrims to help themselves. There was a small donation box where an offering could be made if so desired but not expected. This part of the walk was without towns or fountains and I was in need of water so this stand was a blessing to me as intended. Another pilgrim came along, a tall young man, and taking a piece of fresh watermelon smiled saying “now all is fine!” 

The end of the trail led us to the edge of the plateau we had been on. In the far distance were the snow capped peaks that had been getting closer each day while in the foreground lay the city of Astorga beautiful and proud in her ancient status and glory. This city has been a major crossroad for trade in the pre and post Roman periods for Spain to all parts of Europe. 

The last 5 K were spent walking through another village before Astorga and then through the town itself as our hotel was closer to the end of the city. We liked what we saw though it was quiet due to siesta time. Our hotel we booked online and were very happy with it! A lovely room looking across the square to the beautiful Gaudi Palace (now a museum) as well as the magestic cathedral of Astorga. It had a real bath tub too! Gee, Lil and Will are getting spoiled! 

After checking I suggested that we “do something different” meaning than our usual routine of bathing, washing, etc. Lilly was game and both being hungry we went to look for a restaurant. She’d a good feeling for it so we ordered fried calamari, a fruit and goat cheese salad, sparkling mineral water and a beer for me. We ate out on the plaza across from the hotel sitting under the shade of an umbrella eating fabulous food and getting great service. We felt indeed like the king and queen feasting in front of their beautiful palace. 

We looked at our guide book and calculated that we have 11 days left of walking (if we are able) with one fudge day to arrive in Santiago on the 27 or 28. All of a sudden it seemed so close: to be on the other end of this amazing journey that once stretched out far in front of us. 

After our feast we walked around both the Palace and Cathedral but didn’t have much interest in either museum. Instead we went in search of the chocolate museum for Astorga is known for its artisan chocolate. It took a little sleuthing to locate but we did and bought a pound bar of 70% dark almond chocolate. It will be worth the weight to carry it. Later we found a grocery and restocked on lunch and snack staples. 

With that all accomplished we returned to our room and Lilly took a bath and washed clothes while I started today’s entry so I can go to bed earlier tonight. 

A few hours and a great dinner later it’s time to say: 

Hasta Manana Amigos!

Unsure of the initial route we followed another pair of pilgrims from the last of the city’s suburbs into the campos and fields that we’d been missing for several days. Again back on the familiar Meseta, flat and level far into the horizon though now there were snow capped mountains that framed its edges to the north and west. 

Lilly and I were both walking purposefully today, meditative striding, averaging a bit over 3K per hour. It takes more focus and discipline for me to stay steady on this stride than on the gate I regularly like to walk. Gladly my right foot was fine and didn’t bother me on the trek today. It did remind me it was there whenever my thoughts wandered off in an “unproductive” way, though. Lil’s foot did bother her on and off. And it is slowly improving. She led some of the way today, I following her, both of us going slower than most pilgrims who passed us by. 

The day was another amazing gift amongst the many that we have received on this journey. To date we have experienced only 2 rain days and one of those only had a limited shower. The rest of the time we’ve had varying degrees of blue skies and sunny days. Since hitting the Meseta a week ago we have been blessed with near perfect weather for hiking and sightseeing. 

We came to Spain prepared to spend most of our journey donning ponchos and rain pants. Instead the rain gear is stashed in the bottom of our packs and we are wearing shorts and t-shirts. One of the pilgrims we met who had walked the Camino twice before, told us that both times he came in the spring and that he was wet most of the time. We have been very blessed with fine weather on this Way. 

After the first hour we stopped at a little village for coffee. An enterprising cafe/bar owner was open early for business and several pilgrims were breakfasting there when we arrived. Oh that first cup of coffee in the morning on the Way, it is one of life’s joys! 

As we were leaving another couple came in whom I had seen and helped with Spanish translation the evening before at our restaurant. We said hello and introduced ourselves. They were from New Zealand, the first New Zealanders we’d met, and were planning to finish in Santiago on June 6 their 50th Wedding Anniversary. We thought that very sweet. 

We’ve seen a number of older folks (over 70) on this Camino. In fact I might venture to say that I have seen more people over 50 this trip than people under 30. When I walked the Camino in France those pilgrims I met were predominantly younger. I think it is wonderful that no matter the age or condition the Way calls to all and the call is answered by all. 

The next 9K took us to another village boasting 3 Albergues. We stopped at one called Tio Peppi because we liked the name. There we had our second coffee and lunch of rice cakes, goat cheese, carrot, chocolate, a wonderful ripe avocado and watercress greens. Food like the first coffee tastes soo good on the Way. We have figured out how to eat well and enjoyably too. We had another 10K to go to our evenings lodgings. We both felt revived after eating and took to the Way once more. 

The last three hours were along a long straight road, half paved half not. The wind had picked up and it was just between needing to add a layer to my t-shirt or not temperature. Half way we stopped to rest and gripe about our pains a bit. Not too much, just enough to get through to the Albergue in Villavante which we happily made about 3:00. 

We’d made reservations the night before for a double using the name Guillermo Blanco to hold it. It just seemed easier than trying to say Will Whitesmith. Again we were blessed with good fortune as this Albergue is also new and our room is comfy and lovely. While I took my shower Lilly-Barb found a clothes washer available, washed our clothes and then hung them to dry in the afternoon sun. Even my hat! What a treat! 

After stretches outside in the beauty of the afternoon sun we went in to dinner. However, there were two seatings tonight so we had to wait a bit as we missed the first one. At dinner we were seated next to an Austrian pilgrim, a first this trip too, who was a Spiritual Coach. With our German being zilch and his English being very little we didn’t get too far with our conversation, however it seemed he helped people reduce anxiety and find inner peace. 

Dinner itself was an average pilgrim’s meal. Good mixed salad, a French omelet (only had eggs) with fries and dessert. No wine or beer tonight accompanied our meal so we passed and decided to teetotal it for a change. Lilly-Barb has developed a drinking habit on the Camino and we thought it was time to break it! 

Today we met more English speakers than any day so far. We also met more Americans to date too. Our first Americans were a young newly married couple (maybe this is their honeymoon – if so and they survive it still liking each other they have a promising future). Barb noticed how new and shinny their wedding rings were. We met a woman from Arizona, a woman from Cape Cod, a woman from Colorado Springs. These women were all middle aged or retired and were walking alone. We also met a Dutch woman reading a book in English and found out that she used to be an English teacher and preferred English literature. 

Our next two days we begin climbing out of the Meseta getting ready to enter the last stage of the Camino in Galacia four days from today. As all things shift and change on the Way we are now adjusting to our physical challenges and calling ahead for reservations so we can plan the amount of walking we do each day, at least for now. We have reservations for tomorrow and Saturday made. When calling several places were already full so we can also see the Camino is coming into it full season, which May is. 

Well friends, I started this entry this afternoon so I am completing it earlier than usual. However, it was a long day and tomorrow promises the same so I shall retire early and bid you all: 

Buenas Noches Amigos!

down from the night’s frolities. Back to the hotel we went and shared a pot of good coffee. Later I finished up my writing and editing while Lil went in search of food. She’d seen an American food store hoping to find good peanut butter but the store was a dud, mostly junk. 

All packed up we left the hotel in search of breakfast. Now everything was open again and the sun had warmed up the temperature considerably. We found a bakery that did the trick by advertising toast with olive oil and tomatoes. This sounded good to us and we ordered it with two Americanos. Sitting outside in the sun we added tuna fish and fresh cucumbers to our fare and made a pilgrims feast. For dessert we indulged in real treat of Gelato ice cream, two scoops each. Yumm! 

Sated, we next headed to the Cathedral of Leon which had a far simpler check-in process than that of Bourges and far fewer people too. We were given hand-held audio guides. The narration was helpful and added to our appreciation of the sublime beauty of this twelfth century masterpiece of gothic architecture and design. The stained glass windows streamed light into the vaulting grace of the columns, knaves and transits. For Lilly it was the most beautiful church she’d ever seen. Awed by the sacred energy yet held by it too, she felt both cozy and divine. We left the church feeling full of grace, blessed with its light to go forward on our Way. 

Hence we began our departure from Leon. The route continued through the old part of town passing interesting plazas, churches, and buildings. The day which had begun so cold and crisp was now warm and summery. We walked slowly because we wanted to be easy on our feet. We also were in no hurry as we had a reservation at our next stop. Barb’s foot did bother her some but not greatly and she thought that the weight of the pack didn’t aggravate it. My foot seemed better too but I didn’t put any undue pressure on it by walking at the brisker pace I enjoy. Instead I walked slowly and purposefully for I think that is the message I’m getting. 

We arrived at our destination around 3:45. The check-in was at a bar/cafe nearby and the bartender saw us and flagged us down so we didn’t have to come back. Our lodgings were clean and comfortable yet had the least character of any place we’ve stayed so far. However, it did have a bathtub… always a plus! 

Barb took a bath while I started the day’s blog entry. I then took a long nap awakening refreshed and hungry. We headed out to find a grocery and on the way stopped at another amazing church: the Basilica de la Virgen del Camino situated close to our hostel. This was a modern structure built in 1956 yet inside looked to be from the Baroque period. A very interesting blend of two visions in one building. Beautiful white Lilies were everywhere, smelling sweet and fragrant. We saw them, her name sake, as a blessing for her feet to heal well and soon. 

I stopped a passerby for directions to the grocery and soon found it where we stocked up with our favorite foods for the Way: fruit, watercress greens, rice cakes, nuts, chocolate and tuna. Then it was time to look for a place to eat. We made a big circuit in search of a restaurant without success coming back to where we started to eat at a small bar/cafe that advertised macaroni, stewed meat and dessert with wine and bread for 8 Euros. 

The waiter and his wife who made the food were lovely and so was the dinner. We are now all stocked up on protein and carbs for tomorrow’s walk. Barb and I had fun rereading our early entries from this trip and marveled at all that has transpired on this journey. 

We decided that the first two weeks were to get us ready for the lessons of week three that came with entering the Maseta, the part of the trip where one faces the emotional and mental challenges of the Camino. This was when things began to disappear, beginning with an innocuous sock that signaled the start of harder things to come. 

Now missing a guidebook, a knife and a usb cable later, we are going through the challenges of physical pain and the mental hardship that comes with wondering if you should keep going, or even can keep going on the Way. Again it seems to come down to surrendering to what is in front of us and trusting what we will need will come our way as it always does. 

Yet despite all of the above we are deeply grateful. The lessons we receive only help us to be clearer and more compassionate with ourselves and others. They allow us to ask for help and face our fears and grow in trust that All Is Well! 

Now we are back at our hostel and Lilly-Barb has just turned out the light and is heading to meet Nod. I am going to enjoy a nice bath and soon will join her in the land of healing dreams. 

Hasta Manana Amigos!

We left our lovely hostel at 8:15 after coffee and a piece of what looked like freshly baked pound cake, delicious with a hint of anise flavor. The morning was lovely for walking, bright sunshine and crisp air. 

Our destination was Leon and though initially we thought we’d only 20K to walk, it turned out to be 27K, so another long day. With exception of the first hour and a half the rest of the day’s trek was along highways and through suburbs of Leon. I told Barb if I were to skip a day and take a cab this would have been it! 

Barb’s foot, while gradually healing, has not completely mended. Today was the fourth day we sent her backpack ahead by shuttle service. It is a fabulous operation where we leave the pack at the hotel or hostel with an envelope having the address of the next destination and 7 Euros inside, attached. When we arrive later that day magically the goods have safely arrived. This service has allowed Lilly to walk with only a fanny pack and avoid further weight and stress on her feet. 

While I have had my own aches and pains, mostly on my right hip and leg, it has been a relatively pain free trip. Yet today my right heel began to hurt in familiar way. I’d problems with my feet on the last journey through France and this brought up memories of those hardships. As the day went on the ache mitigated some after taking an Aleve. Perhaps more importantly Barb helped me see the implied message of slowing down. I changed my pace and it helped. 

Things can change so quickly on the Camino, one high moment can soon be followed by a low one. In the end it all seems to balance out. This leads to learning to be in balance to begin with: a major lesson of the Way Lilly and Will are discovering. 

By 3:30 we reached our hotel in Leon. A three star establishment very near the cathedral in the town center that we’d found on Booking.com. While it looked nice online to our delight it was even better in person, complete with a great big tub! 

Lilly bathed and washed her clothes, I took a long nap. Oh, those naps are so regenerative, especially when I have shorted myself on sleep the night before, as I’d done last night. I awoke at 5:30, took a leisurely bath and finishing my book about Jefferson and Hamilton and their relationship and roles in the founding of the US. By the time I’d done bathing and washing clothes it was past 7:00. 

Rested, clean, and relaxed we went exploring this lovely city. The streets were thronged with pedestrians, vibrant and alive, full of their lan, the wonderful spirit of these Spanish people. We dove in and headed to the cathedral. Again we were impressed with its beauty and grandeur, Barb finding it even more beautiful than the one in Burgos. The visiting hours were over so we walked around the plaza enjoying the grandeur and form of the church, thinking we might come back and see the interior tomorrow. 

The receptionist at the hotel had given us several suggestions on dining spots. Searching we wandered through the narrow streets and alleys of this old European city looking at the people and shops. One small street opened to another and Barb spied a book store ahead. Wondering if they carried English books she looked in the window display where, front and center, was the guide book for the Camino that had disappeared on us. Though we had managed well since its loss we both thought it wise to get a replacement copy to help us on the rest of the journey. 

On buying the book Barb asked the clerk, whom she had a good feeling for, if he know of anywhere nearby where we might find a USB cable (for the keyboard I used to type the blog. It too had gone missing). He said there was a store that sold electronics and phone accessories two doors down we might try. 

Great we said and thanked him going onto the shop on the corner where I had an in depth conversation about mini USB cables and did they carry one that would work for my keyboard. The young man was very helpful and we went through several options but none seemed quite right. In the end I went back to the hotel and retrieved the keyboard and returned to the store. Once he saw what I needed he immediately found the correct USB plug and charger and once again I was back in business! 

With two of our basic needs met we were happy as clams, with a guide book for our journey ahead and a way to charge the keyboard to continue blogging. Appreciative of our good fortune we continued our search for a place to dine. 

When asked for a place he would recommend, the man in the bookstore told us all the restaurants in the area were frequented by locals and we’d be happy with any we chose. As we wandered further there many to choose from. Finally we had a good feeling for one and, like most restaurants here, went up to the second floor dinning room. 

The place was almost full with one large table of American walkers, though we weren’t sure if they were pilgrims, and a few locals besides. A table for two awaited us and to our delight the waiter offered us a menu in English. The atmosphere was gay and celebratory and it was a happy feeling to know what we were ordering for the first time in Spain. 

After careful consideration of our many options we settled for a caramelized apple, walnut, and goat cheese salad, a dish of wonderful roasted vegetables (at last), and scrumptious lamb chops, with Perrier, wine and beer to wash it all down. 

Yet another great meal in Spain and we were beginning to think that Spanish food does offer a wonderful cuisine that has been largely unknown to us. I think we had a preconceived notion that the food in Spain would not be of much consequence, yet our gastronomic adventures have proved otherwise. 

It was almost 9:00 when we sat down to eat and by the time we finished it was well after 10:00. The desserts didn’t excite us so we passed and opted to go to a nearby creperie. Barb had a chocolate crepe and I a “Costa Rica” made with caramel, coconut and rum. Tasty. We enjoyed our treats while sitting on the steps of a neighborhood church eating quickly as the night air was getting chilly. 

Walking back to our hotel the streets were now almost deserted. Restaurants closing, shops shut up, the hustle and bustle of the earlier evening now a whisper in the night air. We remarked how fun it has been to see the various faces of these cities at different times of day. We really liked Leon and looked forward to exploring it a little more before moving on tomorrow. 

Back in our cozy and comfortable room we settled into our routines of reading and writing. Soon it was time to turn out the light and say: 

Buenas Noches Amigos!